The Science Behind toning: What does a demi-permanent color actually do?

Written By: Samantha K. Paris

If you've ever sat in the salon chair and heard your stylist say, "We just need to tone it," you may have wondered what that actually means. You may have thought that this what makes the hair a lighter shade. You maybe thought it was a dye, a treatment, or just for shine. And why does the blonde hair sometimes turn brassy in the first place?

Let's break down the science behind hair toning and why it's one of the most important parts of achieving beautiful, healthy-looking color for some clients.

What is a Toner?

The term "toner" typically refers to a demi-permanent color. This is a color product that is low-commitment, adds tone and/or richness, and shine, without leaving a harsh line as it grows out. This type of color gradually fades over time and is great for refreshes, refinements, and enhancements. When we call the demi-permanent color a "toner", we are usually referring to the use of this product specifically after lightening the hair (or in-between blonding appointments for a refresh).

At Storybook Salon, we love using Redken Shades EQ and Shades ALK for toning. This is because they give beautiful shine, are fully customizable in tonality, have a soft growout, all while helping maintain the feel and integrity of the hair. Shades EQ is our go-to for toning the hair, as it's acidic formula is great for glossing and adding translucent pigment, while shades ALK is our go-to for a more colored/ vibrant look or giving stronger gray blending.

Why we Tone

We tone after blonding sessions because lifting the hair exposes underlying warm pigments like yellow, gold, orange, and red. We customize the toner shade to either enhance, refine, or neutralize the tone that is left after lightening. This gives us the color we actually want to see, while leaving enough translucency to adequately display the hard work that was put into your blonding session. Whether you're looking for a creamy, natural-looking blonde, a copper end result, or rich dimensional color, toning after lightening is what gives us the finished result.

We also tone between lightening appointments to refresh faded color, maintain shine, and keep blondes looking polished between blonding visits. This is easier on the hair and wallet that the old-school every-six-week highlight appointment, and gives a more lived-in look with customized dimension.

The Goal for a Great Toner

Whether you love bright, icy blondes, creamy champagne tones, rich brunettes, or soft dimension, toning is often the detail that makes hair look luxurious and complete.

At the end of the day, toners are both science and artistry, and when customized correctly, they can completely elevate your final result.